Bakuchiol has made waves in the beauty and skin care industry as an anti-ageing ingredient that’s gentler on sensitive skin. A type of vitamin A that only requires one step to convert into retinoic acid, Bakuchiol is less irritating than prescription retinoids such as tretinoin.
Retinol may be beneficial in treating fine lines and wrinkles, acne, hyperpigmentation and collagen production issues; however, its use may not suit all users with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin. Here are seven alternative ingredients which could produce similar results without irritation.
1. Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol, an extract from Babchi plant (Psoralea corylifolia), offers anti-ageing and skin brightening benefits without the irritation caused by retinol. Studies have demonstrated its efficacy at increasing collagen synthesis while diminishing fine lines, dark spots, uneven skin tone and reduced appearance of fine lines and dark spots. Furthermore, it works as an effective anti-inflammatory and acts as a natural anti-bacterial, antimicrobial, and antifungal agent, protecting against UV radiation while increasing antioxidant activity while inhibiting oxidative stress in cells.
Bakuchiol can be an ideal alternative to retinol for all skin types, particularly those who can’t tolerate its harsher side effects. To minimize irritation, we advise gradually introducing new skincare ingredients such as bakuchiol serum into your routine – perhaps starting by using it only occasionally and increasing it gradually over time. Also make sure to apply sunscreen after each bakuchiol product use and conduct a patch test prior to adding it into your regular regimen.
2. AHAs
If you’re looking for an effective exfoliation routine without using retinoids, exfoliating products containing AHAs are an excellent alternative. They work to break down dead skin cells while simultaneously improving texture, fading dark spots, smoothing uneven pigmentation and decreasing fine lines.
They can also boost glycosaminoglycan production to provide plump skin. “These creams may be effective against rough patches, fine lines and wrinkles, melasma, hyperpigmentation, acne scarring, seborrheic dermatitis and keratosis pilaris,” stated dermatologist Anar Mikailov in Cosmo.
There are various AHAs found in products, including glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid and tartaric acid. Since AHAs all come with different molecular sizes it’s best to opt for a combination of AHAs. Mario Badescu’s AHA and Ceramide Moisturizer utilizes three AHAs — including glycolic and citric — for gentle yet effective exfoliation while Skinbetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream contains all these together along with peptides, niacinamide, ceramides and hyaluronic acid — for brightening and soothing benefits.
3. Peptides
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, similar to proteins, but with shorter amino acid chains. Peptides can offer various health benefits including anti-inflammation, pro-aging support and weight loss. Natural or synthetic, they signal your body to perform various functions, like lowering blood sugar levels or increasing energy.
Collagen peptides have long been recognized for their beneficial effects in terms of skin elasticity and minimising fine lines and wrinkles, improving texture. There are also growth hormone secretagogues which encourage muscle growth while simultaneously increasing endurance, while immunomodulators help reduce inflammation while encouraging wound healing.
Athletes must exercise extreme caution with this type of peptide supplement, however, as they have been banned by the World Anti-Doping Agency due to their potential to reduce insulin sensitivity and raise blood sugar levels, as well as interfere with performance-enhancing drugs and even cause insulin resistance.
4. Retinol
Retinol is a fat-soluble vitamin A that promotes skin renewal by increasing collagen production (which decreases as people reach age 25). Furthermore, Retinol can reduce dark spots and blemishes while evening out skin tone and texture and softening fine lines and wrinkles.
Retinol is an increasingly popular ingredient, yet not everyone can tolerate it – particularly those with sensitive skin, pregnancy/breastfeeding mothers and those who prefer natural or organic products. If you do decide to add retinol-based products to your routine, look for products with concentration levels no higher than 0.025% and apply sparingly nightly until you get used to using it.
French skincare brand Avene’s gentle-skinned formula uses bakuchiol to gently rejuvenate skin while minimizing irritation, while pairing it with mineral-rich Avene Thermal Spring Water and niacinamide to support barrier function and reduce skin dryness. Hyaluronic acid also works to slow water evaporation while simultaneously plumping up your complexion, adding an extra hydrating element to this formulation.
